Knitting Gauge Calculator
Enter the pattern's gauge and cast-on, then your swatch's gauge, and get the cast-on and row count to use instead, what size the pattern would come out unadjusted, and whether to change needle size.
Cast on instead
110 sts
100 × 1.1
Work rows
150 rows
140 × 1.071
Unadjusted, you'd get
18.2 in wide
pattern intends 20 in
Or change needles
go up a size
Your stitches are smaller: go up a needle size (or two) and re-swatch.
New stitches = pattern stitches × (your gauge ÷ pattern gauge), rows likewise. Round to fit the stitch repeat (a 4-stitch rib wants a multiple of 4). Measure the swatch after washing and blocking it the way the finished piece will be treated.
What a gauge mismatch does to a 100-stitch, 20-inch piece
| Your swatch (per 4 in) | Ratio | Unadjusted width | Cast on instead | Needle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tight knitter, 24 sts | 1.2 | 16.7 in | 120 | go up |
| Slightly tight, 21 sts | 1.05 | 19 in | 105 | go up |
| Matches, 20 sts | 1 | 20 in | 100 | keep |
| Slightly loose, 19 sts | 0.95 | 21.1 in | 95 | go down |
| Loose knitter, 17 sts | 0.85 | 23.5 in | 85 | go down |
Stitch gauge and row gauge are separate
Most knitters can match stitch gauge with a needle change and still be off on rows, because row gauge depends on tension and yarn as much as needle size. That is fine for anything knitted to a measured length ("work until piece measures 15 inches") and matters for anything knitted to a row count, like raglan shaping or a sleeve cap. Enter both gauges; the calculator scales stitches and rows independently, and the row figure tells you how many rows the shaping section should really take.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I adjust a pattern to my gauge?
Multiply the pattern's stitch counts by your gauge divided by the pattern's gauge. If the pattern says 20 stitches per 4 inches and you get 22, the ratio is 1.1: a 100-stitch cast-on becomes 110. Rows work the same way with row gauge. Round to fit the stitch repeat and the pattern's shaping.
What happens if I ignore gauge?
The piece comes out a different size. At 22 stitches instead of 20, a sweater written for a 40-inch chest knits up at 36.4 inches, a full size smaller. The calculator shows the unadjusted size next to the intended one so you can see whether the difference matters for the project; on a scarf it rarely does, on a garment it always does.
Should I change needles or change the numbers?
Change needles first, because the fabric was designed at the pattern's gauge. More stitches than the pattern means your stitches are smaller: go up a needle size and re-swatch. Fewer means go down. Adjust the numbers only when you cannot match gauge, or when you deliberately want a different fabric.
How do I measure gauge properly?
Knit a swatch at least 6 inches square in the pattern stitch, wash and block it the way the finished piece will be treated, then count stitches and rows across the middle 4 inches, away from the edges. Count half stitches; a difference of half a stitch per 4 inches is 3 inches across a sweater.
Does this work for crochet?
Yes. Crochet patterns give gauge in stitches and rows per 4 inches the same way, and the ratio maths is identical; use hook size instead of needle size. Crochet row gauge matters more because rows are tall and shaping happens in fewer of them.
These tools use the standard craft-room rules (resin volume by area and depth, quilt overhang and width-of-fabric piecing, yards per square inch by yarn weight, wax weight per fluid ounce, gauge ratios), all stated on each page. Materials vary by brand: check your resin's mix ratio, your wax's fragrance limit and your own swatch, and buy a little over.